Bevels and planes!

Tonight a short time in the workshop yielded the final bevels on the transom.  As mentioned in previous posts I love bevels, which also means I love planes.  I have a large collection left to me by my grandfather, many are working antiques, some are new.

My favorite, a Millers Falls No.9, which was a direct competitor to Stanley, it equals a Stanley No. 4.  It was manufactured from 1929 to 1976.

As a close second, while brand new, is a Stanley "Bailey" 6 1/4" low angle plane

Transom bevels before, 7mm sides, 12mm bottom

Transom bevels after

Small parts as cold evenings set in

Work is calming down, more weekends and evenings available, but now, cold weather...I have planned to work on small parts through the winter and have tried to save such tasks during the warm snap we have had this Sept-Nov.  That means winter will push some tasks out of the workshop in the garage and into a small, but warm, corner of the basement where epoxy can cure and I do not have to rely on space heaters and plastic sheeting.  Not much to report, finished framing the transom and started work on the tiller.

Transom framed, Doug Fir top and Redwood everywhere else, also reinforcement for the rudder hardware.  I try not to second guess professionals, mainly given the fact I am not a professional boat designer like Michael Storer but this seems to be a common addition.  As a backpacker "of yore" I know the saying can also apply to boatbuilding, "Grams add up to ounces, and ounces add up to pounds."  Students of the GIS can probably deduce my rudder hardware choice just by looking at the picture; completely to spec, simple and lightweight.  Ronstan rf254 & rf239 gudgeons and a 1/4" SS rod bent and drilled.

A part of the build I have very much been looking forward to, including some of my late Papaw's wood into the boat.  Cutting 4/4 cherry for the tiller.  Had to go through the joiner/ planer a few times.

Gradual work over the last few days

Finally sanded both sides completely after chine log epoxy cured.  Then cut and glued most of the transom assembly.  Also glued and cut to size the mast core from W. Red Cedar.  Lastly, completed the bevels on bulkhead 1.  Despite others feelings towards sanding and beveling, I love them both!  While sanding is slow and monotonous I enjoy seeing the long fought for result of a smooth finish plus I somewhat lose myself in sanding.  As for planing, it was never fun until I learned grain orientation and how to sharpen a blade.  With those two pieces of knowledge a plane will truly sing!

The blurriness of this photo captures what it feels like sand 2 side panels

Redwood and Douglas Fir framing glued, seat cleat and rudder reenforcement next.  I used davlafont's method of keeping epoxied parts from wandering by tapping a small wire brad into the glued side of the framing and then snipping it off to about 2-3mm high.  This is then pushed into the wood when clamping to keep it from "sleepwalking" at night.  This small piece of a nail is left behind.

Bulkhead 1 side bevel, sanded sides in background

Mast core

Sides, bulkheads, transom, seats

Day off today allowed a lot of work to be accomplished.  Sanded 1 side and pre-coated both chine logs with 3 coats of epoxy.  Cut out all parts except for rear seat and middle seat.  Plotted cutouts in bulkhead 2 and 3.  Also, started framing transom.  However, time flies.  Wish I could dedicate more large chunks of time to the build instead of 1 - 2 hour increments.  Plan is to continue work on smaller parts (daggerboard, rudder, bulkheads, etc.) through the winter where epoxy can cure in the basement and then resume the assembly in the spring.  Others who have artificially warmed their workshop/ built heating tents for large pieces are much braver than I.   Enjoying the process, so I can wait.

Lots of parts cut out and marked

Not sure how I am going to sand the epoxy on the top and inside corner of the chine log...

Redwood is being used for some framing instead of the chine logs

It's starting to get crowded and a few too many projects...

Sanding and chine logs glued

Chine logs cut down to length and glued to side panels.  Also completed a small amount of sanding before I need to buy more sanding pads.  Decided to use slightly smaller WRC chine logs, 43x17mm, instead of what the plans call for 45x19mm.  These still overlap the bottom by 10mm, as the plans call for.  I assume this will only effect the cutouts in the bulkheads, which I will need to remember to cut to the now smaller chine logs.  Once dry the chine logs will get 3 coats of epoxy then perhaps I will move on to shaping the stem...

Planning and pre-drilling

Clamping in process

Epoxy pre-coating panels

Perfect epoxy weather here in KY so with the extra help of my dad and father-in-law we pre-coated the insides of both side panels and the bottom panel using the "wet-on-wet" application method, with a total of 3 coats.  Even after tipping, we realized the foam rollers created quite a bit of foam in the epoxy.  Temps in the shop were low 70's and it was early evening with the temperature falling to upper 50's overnight.  Not too concerned as the panels will need to be sanded and we have already decided to paint the interior for the sake of utility and ability to easily hide future repairs.

Bulkheads, bottom prep

Slowly cutting out and framing bulkheads.  Also prepped bottom for wet-on-wet epoxy coating.  Decided to utilize Redwood for framing and stay with WRC cut to plan dimensions for the chines so as not to make fitting the bottom to the chines/ bulkheads any trickier.

 

 

Tested out using wire brads to minimize movement of epoxied parts.  Helped to hammer them just through the framing, coat piece with epoxy, get piece into position, and then push tip of brad into ply until clamps could be placed and brads nailed in further.  They were easy to remove with pliers after the epoxy set.

 

Glueing bottom panels, chinelog wood choice...

Slow work continues with my dad.  Glued together bottom panels.  Also marked out and cut bulkhead #1 and bulkhead #4 (not pictured).  Also discussed with my dad the use of on-hand Redwood for the chines since it will be glued on two faces (side panel and bottom) and it is correct dimension 19x45mm, instead of the ripped and scarfed WRC which came out to 17x43mm.  Seems the consensus is second-growth Redwood is a better choice than old-growth and it is not a complete no-go for boatbuilding.

 

Good squeeze-out.

Chine logs

This evening I had the help of my father to rip and scarf two chinelogs.  From a 1x4 the finished size is smaller than the 19 x 45mm dimensions the plans call for.  Hopefully the smaller size, 17mm x 43mm, will not present any problems in the future.  Chinelogs ripped with a Matsushita 7.25" thin kerf blade on the table saw.  Decided on W. Red Cedar instead of a Redwood 1x4 leftover from a previous project.  Feared it too brittle and soft.

Chinelogs ripped, switched back to 10" blade to accommodate the homemade scarf sled.

Mixed epoxy and wood flour for the two 12:1 scarf joints.

Returning to GIS, finally!

It has been quite a while.  Finished some outstanding home projects and I am finally able to focus on the GIS again.  With the help of good friend and woodworker, Michael P., the sides were glued together and bottom cut out.  Expect to have more consistent work on the boat now, watch for updates!